I've had the hangers drive screws through the steel wrapped studs. I will usually hang my own plywood over my pocket door studs and frame the walls to either side flush with the plywood(space permitting), protecting my door from foreign fasteners, and I can make sure the wall is straight before the board hangers arrive. I like the strapping running horizontal idea. This is actually in the Johnson instructions, but I'm also careful to do this when I make my own pockets. This helps to keep a bow out of the wall, which is difficult to straighten with just the thin piece of trim that goes on the inside of the opening. When the board goes up it's helpful if the hangers make sure the ripping is in contact with the framing. I've ripped a 2x4 to the dimension I want the interior of the pocket to be and propped it into the opening before the wall is closed in. So does anyone have any tips, tricks, and trade secrets they'd like to share? I'd really appreciate some sage advice before I start cutting components. I feel like it's fairly straightforward but without any manufacturer instructions to go by I have this nagging doubt that I'm going to miss something. They may sell good hardware but they offer virtually no installation info whatsoever. I'm using Top Line Grant 1230 hardware and tracks from Hettich. (I'd like to thank to John Kirkpatrick "Kpatrix" for helping me find a local source.) The walls are 2圆 and I've got some Timberstrand studs to use for the pockets. The doors are 3068's in completely separate openings - not biparting. I've installed a bunch of prefab frames and knockdown kits but this is the first time I've done it from scratch.ĭuring the frame up, I built the rough openings slightly oversized so I can furr them down/in to fit so there's no problem there. I'm about to build a couple of pocket door frames from scratch and wanted to see if I could get any suggestions from the experts that might help.
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